[2023 – Saskatchewan, Canada – 40 km – 2 days – Prince Albert National Park]
The Grey Owl cabin hike is 40 km – twenty kilometres in and twenty kilometres out.
I get off to a late start, but manage to make it to my backcountry campsite by suppertime.
I set up my tent and then walk the remaining 3.1 km to Grey Owl’s cabin.
There are actually two cabins; the main cabin that Grey Owl lived in from 1931 until his death in 1938 is called Beaver Lodge.
An upper cabin was built a year later for guests, as well as his partner and daughter, who mostly didn’t want to sleep with a noisy, active beaver family.
On the hill between the cabins is the gravesite of Grey Owl, Anahareo, and their daughter, Shirley Dawn.
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Except for a couple of female hikers, who are both also staying at the Northend campsite, I have Beaver Lodge to myself.
I am surprised to find the two cabins unlocked.
Indeed, there is a guest registry inside Beaver Lodge and free postcards for hikers.
On the back of the postcard is written: This postcard is available only by personal visit to Beaver Lodge.
One cannot drive to Beaver Lodge, so the postcard must be somewhat earned.
I use my postcard as a bookmark now so I am always reminded of this great place, and of my childhood wonder after reading Grey Owl’s books.
The Grey Owl cabin trail is in pretty good shape, as are most of the trails in Canada’s national parks.
The walking is slow, however, because it takes time to navigate the numerous exposed tree roots.
It’s a hilly trail, but there aren’t any grunt-level hills to tire me.
Water is plentiful, so I carry a single litre, despite that it is hot and the hiking is thirsty work.
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I am in bed by early evening, a bazillion mossies buzzing just beyond the mesh of the tent.
Three guys who arrived in a fishing boat have set up camp and made a fire.
They are noisy.
I hear them complaining about the mosquitoes, and after an hour, they have a change of heart, tear down their campsite, and decide to head back home.
The two female hikers ask if they can get a ride back in the boat with them.
One of them is struggling from massive blisters on her feet, they say.
When they leave, I have the campground to myself.
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The call of the loon wakes me a couple of times in the night, but I don’t mind.
Nature, you see, and its music.
In the morning, I am back on the trail just after sunrise, walking back to the trailhead without a break, the mossies creating a cloud around me.
I stop only once, to observe a fisher just off the trail.
I’ve only seen a few fishers in all my years of hiking, so I feel blessed.
Before I retire for the evening, I pull out my postcard.
Both cabins are seen in the black and white photo, with Grey Owl just heading out onto Ajawaan Lake in his canoe.
As I look at the postcard, I am reminded of Grey Owl’s words:
Far enough away to gain seclusion, yet within the reach of those whose genuine interest prompts them to make the trip, Beaver Lodge extends a welcome to you if your heart is right.
